How firms linked to sanctioned Chinese cotton giant sell clothes to U.S.
PVH•Three Vietnam garment makers linked to sanctioned Esquel exported at least $5 million in cotton goods to the U.S. after the company was blacklisted in November 2024. Esquel supplied about 70% of the $34 million in cotton it exported from China between November 2024 and June 2026 to the makers.
1. Vietnam makers exported goods
Three Vietnamese garment makers with ties to Esquel Group continued to source cotton from the company after its November 2024 U.S. blacklisting, while also exporting apparel to the United States. Shipment records show the makers—An Loi Apparel, Tessellation Binh Duong and Tessellation Hoa Binh—sent at least $5 million in cotton goods to the U.S.
2. Brand and supplier links
The makers were previously named Esquel Garment Manufacturing Vietnam and were rebranded in October 2022. Their U.S. customers included Muji and Rodd & Gunn, both of which confirmed sourcing from the manufacturers but said they were unaware of links to Esquel. Muji said it planned to audit one plant this year; Rodd & Gunn said it requires partners to source cotton from the U.S., Brazil and Australia and collects chain-of-custody documentation.
3. Sanctions and enforcement
Esquel was sanctioned over alleged links to forced labor programs in Xinjiang, allegations it denies. Customs data show it sent about 70% of the $34 million in cotton it exported from China between November 2024 and June 2026 to the three makers. U.S. Customs and Border Protection detained roughly $2.6 million of the $28 billion in apparel shipped from Vietnam to the U.S. under the Uyghur forced labor law during that period.
