New York Fashion Week leans into American legacy brand revival

Designer Henry Zankov will officially kick off New York Fashion Week on Thursday with his first-ever collection for Diane von Furstenberg, while Thom Browne will close out the event, which runs until September 15.

Also on the list of about 70 runway shows and designer presentations are established brands Carolina Herrera, Christian Siriano and Calvin Klein. London-based designer Conner Ives, a New York native who has dressed celebrities for the Met Gala, is making his NYFW debut.

Still, demand for premium U.S. apparel has been uneven. Michael Kors CPRI.N, which is also hosting a runway show, has grappled with sluggish sales in recent years.

War in the Middle East has hit tourism in Europe, weighing on the luxury sector at large. Growth in the U.S., led by native brands and younger consumers' spending, is partly offsetting a slowdown in the Middle East and Europe, consultancy Bain & Company said this summer.

New York Fashion Week launches next week with a lineup of American heritage brands that have managed to lure in younger Gen Z shoppers, despite broader struggles in the global luxury sector.

The closely watched event will kick off on Wednesday — the eve of the official start — with runway shows from Ralph Lauren RL.N and Coach TPR.N which have both seen strong growth in recent months. Young shoppers in Asia and North America have gravitated toward both Ralph Lauren's revamped cable-knit sweaters and polo shirts, and Coach's Tabby bags.

Tommy Hilfiger PVH.N, also associated with Americana heritage, is breaking a hiatus from the event, hitting the runway after launching a collaboration with NFL star Travis Kelce.

Tommy Hilfiger "being back is a great addition into the American heritage brands that are here and that are still alive," said Tori López, the Fashion Market Editor at W Magazine. "It's kind of a nice fit back into that family."